That was GREAT! I would love to experience surfing in that way. Thanks again!
That was GREAT! I would love to experience surfing in that way. Thanks again!
DAR
R/R 1993
Draw close to God and he will draw close to you. - James 4:8
DAR:
You could surf if you could learn how to swim
Two things happened at the beach I surf at. There was a woman floating near us women surfing and she asked if we gave lessons. We said no, but I could put her on my board to float on it. She said ,”No, Actually I was in a w/c for 9 years and only recently started to walk again. The first day I walked two steps and built it up from there. “ I said, “Do you have MS?” Which of course she did. I gave her my boogie board to have and use.
Then, one day, a young man was pushing his mother in the beach w/c which floats (It has huge tires and the Park lets u use it) So she was scared and I said, “Do you have MS?” And she was shocked I knew. She was overweight, so a bit unwieldy, but I convinced her we could put her on the board, lying down and I would let her float on my board. She was scared . I told her I had MS and that God put me in her path today to hep her. So me and my buddy managed to somehow get this flailing large woman on the board. She was so excited and made her son run to the beach for the camera and get her picture”
I think she couldn’t stop thinking about it for several days. I never saw her again.
Anyway, I used that fat tired w/c and my friends would pull it through the sand (easy for me cuz I was sitting in it) and hard on them.
They could roll it by the ocean’s edge and at that point I could walk about 10 feet. I kept my meds in a cooler in the beach and in my surfmobile which at that point, DH had to drive me.
I was still standing on the board if the wave was big enough, it has a steeper face so it is like the energy pushes you to your feet.
So, I can imagine me and you a few years ago, we would wheel you to the water and help you lie on teh board. Even doing that and letting the white water just gently push u toward the shore would be a thrill for you. Feeling the spray go over you and the rainbow it makes is just breathtaking.
My biggest wave was 6’, over my head and I was lucky enough that the local photographer got a picture of it. It was scary as all get out, but really thrilling, like something in a movie with all the big dogs out there rooting me on, whistling and woo hooing and blocking the wave for me so that no doofus tried to take my wave from me.
But my favorites (ie. Fun, stoke filling but not terrifying) were the thigh high to waist high waves :)I miss that feeling of dropping down the face of the wave and feeling teh energy go through you.
BTW if you’ve never watched Soul Surfer, a true story btw, get it and watch it. I think its on Netflix or Primevideo right now. It is about Bethany Hamilton. You’ve heard of her?
Dar: There used to be someone here named Poolwatcher.
I think she is or was on MSWorld bulletin board.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Yes, Sunshine, I am familiar with her. Thanks for the info. Even though I love watching surfers, I have never been comfortable in water. I hate it when water enters my ears, or nose. Salt water is the worst and I don't like it when water goes above my neck. lol Needless to say, I won't be doing anything but watching surfing. But thanks for the great experiences you have enjoyed. I am sorry you are not able to enjoy it any more.
DAR
R/R 1993
Draw close to God and he will draw close to you. - James 4:8