I went surfing today. It was a perfect day: the water and air are warming up, so only lightweight easy to remove neoprene was possible. The waves were knee to waist high plus, a decent interval, clean and semi glassy, very light breeze with partly sunny warm skies. What more could I want?
My girlfriend drove me down and dragged me in the beach chair to the ocean. Another friend cleaned me up and drove me home out of her way to get me back home.
The love shown to me by group and others at the beach is stunning.
I did get about 4 rides, and a couple of fails where my timing was off and the wave rolled under me. Usually that doesn’t matter, just paddle back out and try again. But, I only get a certain amount of paddling, so each failed wave reduces the amount of time in the water.
My last wave was the better wave. I caught it right, felt the board accelerate, scrambled up and rode it a bit before it died due to inability to push my forward foot more toward the end of the nose to increase acceleration and shift weight forward. Oh well!
I regretted passing up a perfect waist high plus wave that a dude called out for me. I am not sure why I passed on it, except it was at the end of the session, and I was already getting complaints from my legs. So, it shook my confidence and I decided to just pass on it and then paddle back in with no wave. I should’ve done it and risked a spasm. Next time I will.
I am sure we all have experiences that our healthy self would’ve instantly grabbed for. But now, with a broken down body, are not so sure it’s doable.
Whether its surfing a wave, accepting an invitation for an outing with a friend, and so forth.
My girlfriend drove me down and dragged me in the beach chair to the ocean. Another friend cleaned me up and drove me home out of her way to get me back home.
The love shown to me by group and others at the beach is stunning.
I did get about 4 rides, and a couple of fails where my timing was off and the wave rolled under me. Usually that doesn’t matter, just paddle back out and try again. But, I only get a certain amount of paddling, so each failed wave reduces the amount of time in the water.
My last wave was the better wave. I caught it right, felt the board accelerate, scrambled up and rode it a bit before it died due to inability to push my forward foot more toward the end of the nose to increase acceleration and shift weight forward. Oh well!
I regretted passing up a perfect waist high plus wave that a dude called out for me. I am not sure why I passed on it, except it was at the end of the session, and I was already getting complaints from my legs. So, it shook my confidence and I decided to just pass on it and then paddle back in with no wave. I should’ve done it and risked a spasm. Next time I will.
I am sure we all have experiences that our healthy self would’ve instantly grabbed for. But now, with a broken down body, are not so sure it’s doable.
Whether its surfing a wave, accepting an invitation for an outing with a friend, and so forth.
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