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Thread: Keep on Moving Club: Oct. 2017

  1. #81
    Distinguished Community Member BBS1951's Avatar
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    I went surfing today and was pleased that my back is healed and did well. Yay!

    There were only two guys there this morning, and only one of my women surf buddies. The guys finished up as we paddled out. I lasted about an hour between paddling out, resting 5 minutes and the last ride in.

    The sky was cloudy in anticipation of TS Philippe. The ocean is still fairly warm at 79, but with no sun and light breezes I opted to wear a 1.5 mm neoprene jacket and capris. It was just the right amount of warmth. Had the sun come out, would’ve been too warm.

    There was a fair amount of chop on the water and it didn’t look like much . The waves were inconsistent knee to shoulder highs, 9”intervals. There were pelicans fishing everywhere, and the water was too murky to spot the fish.

    At first it was hard to paddle out against the incoming, and I was content to test my back out in the whitewater. It held nicely. I was having plenty of fun cruising prone in the whitewater.

    But then, I saw a nice beak in the oncoming and paddled out to the lineup. The waves by then were pretty big so,the lineup was,fairly distant from shore, and deep, which is anxiety arousing because my body could fail at any time and could make it hard to get to shore. So, I told myself not to look back at where the shore was, just focus on getting out there.

    So, there I was in the lineup with just my buddy, the waves looked formidable, fear crept back in, worry I could seize up in a wipeout.

    I said to my buddy, “am taking the next one in. Am psyching myself out”.

    The next one in was a chest high wave. Somehow I popped up fast and took the very fun drop. There was a lot of bumpiness on the water, and I hit a nice bump. My legs couid t absorb it, so I wiped out.

    I twisted around and around in the water, spotted the board, flopped onto it, and enjoyed the whitewater ride into shore.

    That was not only a fun wave despite the wipeout, but a feeling of excitement of having done it,

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  3. #82
    Distinguished Community Member Howie's Avatar
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    Cool

    You did good. Give it time, and you'll be riding distances with stability again.
    Roswell was a gift.

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  5. #83
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    You are amazing BBS. Just keep this up and you will be the way you used to be. I don't know how you pop up so quick.
    Sounds awesome.
    Virginia

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  7. #84
    Distinguished Community Member BBS1951's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Virginia View Post
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    You are amazing BBS. Just keep this up and you will be the way you used to be. I don't know how you pop up so quick.
    Sounds awesome.
    Gravity and speed allows it.its like being on a tilted board and someone is pushing u from behind and you’re moving very fast down the tilt. And you’re in water so you know you won’t break bones.

    Alas, I won’t be back to self a year ago where I could take 20 waves in 2 hours and surf 2 to 3 hours at a stretch with impunity. Trying not to focus on that, and focus on grateful can still surf an hour and get at least one wave.

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