Thats a lot of good activity ladies :) We all know how hard these things are, and its great to be able to move while we can still move.
About ten minutes after sunrise, I crested the"hill" of the boardwalk to take in a stunning scene. There was a light fog on the water, causing unworldly eerie silvery lighting everywhere and especially on the water. The ocean was glassy with these thigh to chest high sets rolling through. It was very sacred looking, especially since it was only about 8 locals on the scene. I had two impulses: run out there and paddle out in the gorgeousness, versus watch and be transfixed by it. I chose the latter for about 5 minutes, until the no see ums tipped my hand, and Paddle out I did.
That was the second thing of beauty. It was way too warm in the water for a 3/2mm. So glad I had the foresight to bring trunks and a 1.5mm jacket. Younger dudes could've done without the jacket.
The immediate thing upon paddling out was how deceptive the water looked from the beach. It looked pretty easy and gentle. Not so. There was plenty of energy in the incoming whitewater while paddling out through it. And, on the first ride, I got down the face of it, it was steep, somehow scooted in front of it as it closed out behind me somehow. And I couldn't believe how much force was in the wash closing in on me. It was enough that I couldn't see anything, just hoped nothing was in front of me.
I let myself take two waves and then called it a morning, so as to be able to recover faster with the MS. Good strategy.
The long boarders were falling off waves a lot, likely due to it being low tide. The short boarders and skilled SUPers were really having fun with it. One of my crew got hurt in the shallow water, she should be okay. But its a sobering reminder about how low tide can be tricky at times.