I went surfing this morning. It was lightly raining for a bit which turned the waves glassy, shoulder high. What a beautiful view and then a rainbow came out. When the waves are so glassy, it's just beautiful to paddle over the face of the waves. You can nearly see through it.
The larger the wave, the farther away from shore they break at this kind of beach. This can be unnerving because I get worried about being so far out and get in spasms. So, I was very pleased to tamp down the fear and get out there. I was paddling for this beautiful wave and just missed it as it rolled under Me. Itnwiukdve been a gorgeous ride with a great drop to it. No worries. I was just feeling pleased that I went out there. The pre attack me would've just waited for another one. But, I decided to paddle in and not tempt fate.
It's amazing to me how dedicated surfers find work that allows them to go surfing for a couple of hours when the ocean is pumping.
I can't wait for the morning. The forecast looks good for perfect size clean waves, not so far from shore.